I had my first taste of Ceviche while filming near the Chilean border with Peru, in a plastic shack on the beach, very memorable. Ceviche is a traditional Peruvian dish that has become popular around the globe. It is also very easy and quick to make, requires no cooking and is the perfect summer dish. The basic components are raw fish cured in citrus juice, chilli, alliums and aromatic herbs. There are infinite variations, below are some tried and tested examples, including a vegetarian version. Continue reading Ceviche
This is a popular isakaya-style dish which makes a great starter in a Japanese menu. White radish is transformed into delicate, soft disks.
The humble celeriac is transformed into a luxurious velouté through generous amounts of wine, port and cream. (The 400ml cream are not a typo…) Easy and fast.
60 g butter
50 g shallots or onions, coarsely chopped
500 g celeriac, coarsely chopped
1 litre chicken stock or good vegetable stock
125 ml white wine, not too dry
80 ml white port
400 ml full fat cream
Gently fry shallots and chopped celeriac in the butter. Add the stock, wine and port. Simmer for 30 mins. Blend until smooth, add cream. Let reduce a bit if necessary. Season with salt, pepper and a couple of dashes of lemon juice.
Garnish with deep fried parsley, celery straw or Jerusalem artichoke. Apples, truffles, porcini or other mushrooms should also work.
after a recipe by Austrian cook Werner Matt
I am not much of a fan of all the organ meats that are popular in traditional Viennese cuisine. But when I bought a whole roe deer from a hunter last week, he told me that usually, hunters keep the heart for themselves. For a good reason, apparently it is the most delicious cut of meat. Tempting! Since I recently had a hay-smoked goat’s heart at the wonderful Koya restaurant in London, I made up the following dish which proved to me that the hunters are right. Continue reading smoked roe deer heart
A dish for a late summer day with an autumnal note provided by the beetroot, creating a beautifully red gazpacho. Fast and easy.
2 beetroots (about 500 grs)
1/2 salad cucumber
1/2 red bell pepper
50ml red wine or sherry vinegar
100 ml olive oil
dash of Tabasco (optional)
horseradish, freshly grated
Smoked trout or caviar
Boil the beets, unpeeled, in salted water until soft but firm, about 20-30 Minutes, depending on size. In the meantime, de-seed the tomatoes, peel the cucumber. Peel the boiled beet, roughly chop all vegetables and blend in a food processor. Reserve some beet cubes for the garnish. Add vinegar, olive oil, Tabasco, olive oil & pepper. Add some boiling water from the beets if the texture is too thick. Garnish with Crème fraîche, beet cubes, trout, fleur de sel and lots of freshly grated horseradish.
Serve slightly warm or cold.
The horseradish can be mixed with an equal amount of a grated sour apple.
Adapted from: Die ZEIT Magazin
Had something similar with real foie gras in Alsace, delicious. Tried to emulate it with ethically slightly more correct chicken livers, which took a bit of research and experimenting. The result is not the same but a great dish in its own right.
300 grs chicken livers
100 ml full fat cream
200 grs butter
1 small onion
1 clove of garlic
15 grs dried porcini or shiitake mushrooms
3 tbsp cognac or brandy
1 tbsp port or sherry
1 tbsp english mustard
Finely chop the onion and garlic, fry slowly until translucent. Finely grind the dried mushrooms in a food processor, then simmer with half of the cream for 10 minutes. (Fresh mussrooms might work equally, they would need to be fried with the livers.) Clean the livers of any white bits and dark spots, chop and fry with the onions until done. Add cognac and port and turn heat off immediately. Combine all ingredients in a food processor and blend into a fine mush. Adjust seasoning, maybe add a bit of cognac if necessary. Pour into little ramekins and refrigerate.
The surface will go green when stored in the fridge, so if you want to keep it for a few days it is best to cover it with a thin layer of clarified butter.
1/4 l Gewürztraminer or other aromatic sweet dessert wine
50-100grs sugar according to taste
agar agar powder (quantity according to instructions of your brand)
Simmer the Gewürztraminer with the sugar and agar agar for three minutes. Pour into a flat bottom container about half a centimeter high. Refrigerate. Remove and cut into thin strips and serve with the paté.
Never throw away that piece of raw salmon skin again!